Gibb River Road – the other end II
by inka on Jun.01, 2011, under The Kimberleys
Monday, 30 May 2011
The next day we decided to master another long walk, 9,6 km return to the Champagne Springs. It started off along the banks of the Pentecoste River Crossing that was the entrance to the Station and led over the stony river bank, 3 small creek crossings and a long hot walk over a stony hill. All in all it was not particularly difficult in terms of climbing but with the sun beating down and given the total length of it, it was quite exhausting. At the end of the walk awaited us a beautiful waterfall and a refreshing waterhole surrounded by cliffs but the springs themselves were neither warm (which was my hope after the amazing Zebedee Springs) nor well visible. But still it was good exercise. El Questro Park says about the walk: “Moderate to difficult trail, only physically fit and able individuals should attempt this walk. The longer walk is difficult and exposed and must not attempted after 11!” The cliffs you can see on the pictures rise up to 375m and are mostly made up of ancient sandstone.
- 4WD Camping spot
- Your El Questro Wilderness Park Pass, please…!
- Half way point at the huge boab tree
- Cliffs at Champagne Creek
- At the champagne springs – but no champagne there
- Better keep your balance when passing this part here – or wet feet!
- Almost there…
- Champagne Creek Cliffs
- Champagne Springs waterfall
- Waterfall and waterhole at Champagne Springs
- Feeling a little uneasy – are there crocs around?
- A well deserved and refreshing swim
- The last part of the walk, rocks and grassland and no shade in sight
- Who wants honey? Bees at the old Boab tree
After such a physical morning the afternoon was reserved for some serious 4WDing when we had a look at El Questro’s Lookouts.
First was Chamberlain Gorge Jetty where you could take a boat cruise into the Gorge but we only had a look at the river hoping to spot some crocodiles:
- One of the signs you might better take seriously
- Chamberlain River to the right – not much riverlike…
- Chamberlain Gorge – any crocs in sight?
Next was Pidgeon Hole with some steep hills to tackle:
- Steep way up to Pidgeon Hole Lookout
- View from Pidgeon Hole Lookout
- Sweetie at Pidgeon Hole Lookout
- View from Pidgeon Hole Lookout
- View from Pidgeon Hole Lookout
- View from Pidgeon Hole Lookout
- Steep way down from Pidgeon Hole Lookout
Followed by Saddleback Ridge Lookout that had it all, river crossing, sand and steep hills:
- Checking the depth of the rivercrossing again
- Road to Saddleback Ridge Lookout
- Somewhere down there is our camp
- It goes very steep up the hill
- Road to Saddleback Ridge Lookout
- And steep down the hill as well
- Rivercrossing on the way to Saddleback Ridge Lookout
- Dirt is not avoidable
The 7km round trip is supposed to take 40 min and only for experienced 4×4 drivers only! Yeeha!!
And finally up to Branco’s Lookout that had the worse river crossing ever and I think our flat tyre later was caused here. Nevertheless, a true 4WD adventure!
- The longest rivercrossing ever
- … and the most straineous for the car as well as for us
- The river is damned to make a crossing possible (look at the huge stones)
- River crossing part 2: most likely this crossing cost us a tyre
- View from Branco’s Lookout – not worth a tyre
- Rivercrossing – very brave Landcruiser
- Nature’s force
- On the way back
- On the back just in time before it was getting dark
- The Durak family, pioneers in this area in the 1800s, lived here
- Boab tree on the way to Branco’s Lookout
Enough of adventure for the day, after some nice dinner and two presentations from the Wilderness Park ranger and Australian Geographics and a chat with the Dutch couple we had met several times before we spent a last night at El Questro Wilderness Park.
Tuesday, 31 May 2011
On our way out we saw the Caravan again that got stuck when we first arrived at the Station. It seemed that somebody from El Questro’s staff had told him he would be able to make the crossing (bad advise) although it is quite obvious that most of the tracks are only suited for 4WDs and his radiator was damaged. He got pulled out but since he couldn’t move his car he couldn’t return and kind of camped in front of the crossing waiting for his new radiator to arrive. He got stuck on a Sunday and when we left on Tuesday we was still there. Poor bugger!
Happy to have our LandCruiser (as we usually are) we made our way to the last gorge on our list, Amalia Gorge, a 3.4 km return walk with moderate difficulty, that had one exciting (caution) point where one had to squeeze along a rock with a 4m drop but the rest was quite easy:
- Waiting for his radiator
- Pool along the way
- Rock wallaby… eh… cutie
- Pool at Amalia Gorge
- Amalia Gorge walk
- Small waterfall along the way
- Creek and rocks along the way
- Amalia Gorge
- Along the way to the waterfall
- Amalia Gorge waterfall
- Amalia Gorge waterfall
And a quick look to the Pentecoste Crossing along the Gibb River Road, one of the two rivers that were quite high the last couple of weeks and made the Gibb impassable.
- Pentecoste River – what a huge crossing!
- Grading the road
- Wheel deep into water
- Not quite shallow either
- Cockburn ranges along the Gibb River Road
Now it was time to leave the Gibb River Road and El Questro Wilderness Park and head towards the next bigger city which was Kununnura to fill up petrol and groceries and look for spare parts which were again not to be found.
When we were about to drive to our campsite only to fill up petrol before it happened – a flat tyre! Not a happy sight especially since it seemed to be difficult to lift the car high enough to be able to change the tyre. Luckily enough two Australian with racing car equipment had stopped behind us at the petrol station and were able to help us out.
- A flat tyre – what a shock!
- Joint forces
- Two Australians helping us out
Thanks again guys, that was awesome! But what disaster because although we had our spare tyre on we wouldn’t be able to continue our travels without buying another spare tyre. This area being remote and having lots of gravel roads it is actually recommended to have two spare tyres on board just to be on the safe side.
Wednesday, 01 June 2011
First thing the next morning was to repair the intermediate exhaust again (since we couldn’t find any used part) and to organize a new tyre without spending a fortune (which you can on tyres) and fortunately we were lucky and could buy a used tyre.
- Our campsite
- Old exhaust bandage…
- New exhaust bandage
- And the old spare tyre back where it belongs
One famous and often seen picture in Western Australia’s brochures is the Ivanhoe Crossing. Well, usually the pictures show less water and the road is passable. Not today, have a look yourself:
- This will be a wet picknick
- There is a road?
- Without the sign you wouldn’t know… ; )
- Having a closer look
- On safe grounds
- Everything is under water
From these few pictures you get a picture of what we encountered throughout Western Australia: In contrast to normal years a very very long wet season and therefore many things were flooded and not passable. Roads damaged or waters infested with crocodiles that normally would have long been gone…
Nevertheless, we continued our trip and had lunch at Lake Argyle, a man made reservoir for the Ord River irrigation scheme.
- On the way to Lake Argyle
- Lake Argyle from afar
- Pumping station
- View from the dam
- Ord River
- Lake Argyle and the dam
- Lake Argyle
- Lake Argyle
- On the way to Lake Argyle
- On the way to Lake Argyle
This is what it’s like driving along there:
And finally with one sad and one smiling eye we left Western Australia that had so many great places to offer. Interesting enough, there was no border control from WA to Northern Territory, from what we heard they have all the Australian pests (e.g. cane toads) already so not need for checking ; )
- Welcome Northern Territory
- Well, we drive only 80 anyway




























































































